D.I.Y- No-sew Beach Cover + How to Use a Pareo/Sarong

1.75 yards of jersey or stretchy cotton material*

Ribbon/any other material for a strap 

Scissors

(1) Cut it. Decide the length & width of your fabric. You want it to wrap around your body a bit loosely. I chose to have mine hit just above my knees. I've had questions about making it full length- the jersey usually comes in a 54" length, which will make it full length if you don't cut it down. You'll also need to make underarm areas. I did that by folding it in half and cutting a deep "C". (*you may need more or less fabric depending on your size) **TIP: see the jagged edges of my wrap? Jersey generally rolls when left unhemmed, so this may not be an issue for you- but if you want a smooth cut, hold the jersey taut while cutting. I had to go back through and clean up my edges.

(2) Braid it. Next, take some extra fabric to create the braided straps. I took two pieces of fabric (1 yard by 5 inches) and cut them each into 3 pieces. I did it that way so that even if the little pieces weren't the same width, the finished product would be equal since each strap would be made from 5 inches of width. Knot the ends of 3 pieces together and braid, knot again. Repeat for the other strap. If you'd like, you can use ribbon or some other material to make the straps.

(3) Attach it. Here is where the variation comes in for no-sew. See where I sewed it on the corners of the underarm C cuts? Instead of sewing it, you're going to make a teeny, tiny slit about 1 inch from the edge in the corner (see second pictures for white 'slit' and red arrows pointing to it). The smaller, the better. Treat it with Fray Check, when it dries, stick each end of the braid/strip of fabric/ribbon through the hole and knot it *tightly*. Trim the edges of the knot.

Cutting in the angle

(4) Adjust it. Try it on and see if it fits well. Do you need to take more fabric off the sides or bottom? Do you need to shorten the shoulder straps? At this point, I angled one side of the cover up. I may go back and angle both sides. To cut the angle, start on the side and cut from top to bottom, making it wider on the top and narrower on the bottom.

Now let's get to sarongs or pareos. For the paro version of this, I literally just cut two arm-sized holes into the top corners and then treated them with fray check. I don't trust cutting the sarong material *too much*, so I left the length alone, which made it full length.

Let's talk about wearing them! Here are 6 fun ways, plus how to make a bag. Now, I'm really not into swimsuit pictures of me floating around the internet (trolls are MEAN!), so I did the instruction pictures while wearing my lounge clothes and then took "final pictures" in my suit so that you can see how it looks alone.

(1) Twist front. Start with the sarong behind you, holding one end in each hand. Twist the ends tightly into ropes, cross behind neck and tie.

(2) Greek. Start with sarong to the side, take one end in each hand, tie on top of shoulder.

(3) One Shoulder. Start with sarong to the side. Take the front corner, wrap it underneath your under arm and bring upwards. Next, bring the back corner toward the front, pull upwards and tie on top of your shoulder.

(4) Twist Front 2: Similar to the first, instead of roping the ends, simply wrap them around each other and then bring to the neck, knotting behind. 

(5) Knotted Front. Start with the sarong behind you, wrap in front and knot.

(6) Vest. Tie the two top corners together, slip over your shoulders.

To use the pareo as a bag, simply place everything in the center and roll it like a burrito. Then tie it closed, like a package. Lastly, tie the very ends together to create a strap. 

Via: http://laviediy.blogspot.com/2012/04/diy-no-sew-beach-cover-how-to-use.html

D.I.Y - Small Greenhouse

I Googled "Build a Tiny Shed" to find a basic idea of how to proceed.  I chose the rustic shed from Reader's Digest - one, because it looked like fairly simple construction and two, because I want a tiny rustic shed too!!! (coming attraction).

The angled stuff was too complicated for my liking, so I ignored that part and built a box frame out of 2x4s (I have this greenhouse against my house and under the eaves so a pitched roof isn't as necessary). The depth and the height are an inch bigger than the window measurements.  The width is 6 inches larger than the window I planned to use for the door to allow for the 2x4 frame on each side of the doorway.

I used screws to attach the 2x4s together.  When I had the box put together, I added two 2x2 cross pieces to the sides so I could run a shelf across them.  I wanted to allow for vents along the sides of the back wall, so I centered a piece of plywood by adding crosspieces at the inside top and bottom of my frame to secure the plywood to.  The crosspieces run on the inside of the 2x4s so the back of the panel is set in slightly from the outside edge of the  2x4s - see below:  (I apologize to any carpenters who may be reading this!)  I added another piece of plywood to the bottom 2x4s for my floor.

I then ran two additional pieces of wood across the base to account for the fact that my pallet supports run parallel to the sides of my greenhouse.  With the extra "legs" in place, I can shift the greenhouse to any position on that pallet without it falling through the cracks.  It also allows for the door to sit inside the frame.

When I was done building the frame, I primed & painted it.  Then I attached the windows using more screws.  The door is attached with two medium weight T-hinges and I put a latch on it so I can keep the door closed when I want to.  I also had to add a 1x4 piece of wood to the door window because there wasn't enough wood surface on the window to allow for the latch to be attached to the window & because the latch wasn't long enough to reach the outer edge of the greenhouse where the catch was to be installed.

For the moment, my roof is just a pane of glass with a plastic frame (it was another storm window).  It doesn't quite extend far enough over the edges to keep the rain out, so I plan to build a wood frame for it and attach it with hinges to the back of the greenhouse so I can prop it open when I want to.

Via: http://designdreamsbyanne.blogspot.ca/2011/09/how-i-built-baby-greenhouse.html

D.I.Y - Deck Day Bed

Here's how we did it and how to possibly build your own.

It's easy, I promise!!

The Fast Five Details (love that movie!!)

- we built a frame to the size we wanted attaching it to our existing deck flooring as we went
- we screwed on our reclaimed hardwood to hide the frame
-we cut chipboard to fit on the top of the frame
- we attached foam to the chipboard and upholstered with an old sheet
- we made a washable, removable slipcover in our chosen fabric.

The Nuts And Bolts Of The Build


1. Work out the size you want your day bed to be. (ours is roughly 1200 x 1400 x 380)

2. The frame.

We used pine 2x4's and made frames to suit our measurements.
2 x for each end and 3 x for the remaining ends and one to go through the middle for support.
You need to think about where you'll need support to suit the size you're building.
Tony used his nail gun to join all the pieces together, and most hardware stores can cut it all to size for you.

Remember to subtract the width of the pine each end off your width (or Length) measurement for the 3 frames running through the middle. (see below)

We tried it out to make sure it fit, then screwed it to the deck and also the frames to each other.

Other alternatives to this would be - attaching chip board to the base and screwing 4/6 casters for a moveable day bed

or

- screwing down chipboard to the deck then screwing the frame to it to make it more weather proof so you could use inside as storage. Just add a hinge to the top!

3. The Sides.

Next we attached our reclaimed hardwood which Tony cut to size after measuring  the frame once it was screwed down.

He attached by screwing it from the inside so no screws are visible.

We left the hardwood as it was, we wanted the old, grey weathered look!

4. The Top

Once the sides were on, we measured the inside and cut a piece of chipboard to fit.

You might notice we made the frame a little lower than the hardwood sides are, so that part of the 'bed' (upholstered bit) will sit down inside for a nicer profile!

You could build the frame the same height as your sides so the upholstery sits right on top, you would need to do this if you were attaching hinges and having storage underneath.

Our way is to hard to get the top on and off...it's a snug fit! Which is what we wanted :)

An 'un-dressed' photo.

1. Adding foam

This part is relatively easy. All you'll need is some craft glue and an electric knife. Oh, and your foam of course! I used 2 lots to get the thickness I wanted. Both thrifted! I think I paid $26 for all the foam I used which isn't bad considering a single bed sized foam mattress is about $80 new!

First I layed the foam onto the day bed so I could mark where I needed to cut.

I knew I was going to have a few joins, but once it's upholstered you don't notice them at all.

Make sure to draw your line around onto the side as well.

Grab your trusty electric knife and lets get cutting!

I found the best way to cut was through the narrow side, looking down on your work as pictured above. If you do it looking at the flat wide side, the cut would tend to be quite wavy and not nice and perpendicular to the top.

Repeat this step until you've got your little foam puzzle pieces fitting nice and snug together. It's better to cut them a little bigger rather than smaller, you can always cut a bit more off. Once it's gone, its gone...kinda like a hair cut!!

Next, grab your glue and drizzle it on, as below.

Sit the foam on and let it dry. I didn't press it down much, the glue seems to hold it there pretty well.

Then you'll have something like this...

I then repeated the same steps with my next layer of foam. I just made sure the joins were in a different place.

I just remembered, you need to glue the edges of your foam together as well as the bottoms. Helps it all stay together!

Next I put on some wadding/batting to help cover any joins and make it a little softer.

It wasn't quite wide enough but I found it just kinda sits there in place, so I stapled it on. You can just see the joins near the middle :)

Here's where it gets a little sad.

You see, I like nice sheets. (this is relevant, bare with me!)

There's nothing like climbing into a bed freshly made with 1000 thread count sheets. A little sateen into the mix, you can't go back to poly/cotton after these babies!

Anyway...of course they're expensive, so I just have two pairs. One on the bed, one in the wash. It all worked out quite nicely...until....one of my fitted sheets ripped.

Bummer.

So, lets not waste a perfectly soft, luxurious sheet I think to myself. I couldn't bare to throw it out.

Onto the daybed it went. which is the next step..

stapling that baby soft sheet on.

Luckily the rip worked to my advantage, I just continued it on, cut off the ends then stapled away!

Now a lot of people may flip this over so it's upside down and pull and staple...but not me.

I like to see that it's nice and tight and there's no bunching in the corners. It takes a little practice to staple from underneath, but it's doable. And it takes a little strength as well to pull it all tight as you can, guess that comes from all those years holding a hairdryer!

You gotta do what works best for you :) An extra pair of hands is always helpful!

I start in the middle on one side and staple almost to the corner both ways, then spin it round and do the opposite side. Then do the same on the other two sides so you've left the corners for last.

Remember hospital corners for making a bed? It's now kinda like that for your corners. Fold some of the excess in out of the way then smooth the rest over until your happy with it. Then get a staple or two in it quick before your arm falls off from pulling it all so tight!!

Now it's time for the slip cover.

It's like it's own fitted sheet that you can take off and wash. Or that was the plan until I discovered that I really dislike sewing. It's still removable, just...a little different.

Put your fabric on upside down. I discovered mine wasn't wide enough so I had to add some more to it, which is the ugly brown you can see!

Then pin each corner, making sure it's on tight.

Now sew each corner, following your pins, then cut off the excess.

Turn it right way out and try it on for size!

Now this is where it got difficult. My sewing skills are pretty basic and I envisioned hemming and threading elastic through...and hopefully I'll sit down and give it a try one day. 

Via: http://apprenticeextrovert.blogspot.com/2012/02/day-bed-tutorialpart-two.html